Cool Japan/2

Scary Is Cool

Long before Godzilla rose up from the murky depths of Tokyo Bay, monstrous creatures terrorized people across Japan. Demons, goblins, and ghouls inhabited the shadows—wandering between the living and the dead.

Japan is home to an astounding number of supernatural creatures. Soul-devouring oni, red-faced with fangs and horns. Shape-shifting cats, fire-breathing birds, and raccoon-dogs disguised as monks. Faceless ghosts floating through bamboo thickets. And Kappa, a hairy turtle goblin that’s fond of cucumbers, sumo, and drowning unsuspecting children.

Even household items spring to life when hapless owners mistreat, neglect, or break them. Restless mirrors, lanterns, sandals, and umbrellas sprout arms, legs, and an eye or two. Whether on foot or on horseback, the animated objects spell trouble.

Karakasa, the Umbrella Ghost

Tales of encounters with bizarre beings have deep roots in Japan. Shinto teaches that the essence of being is within everything. Life energy exists in stone, plants, mountains, air, waterfalls, soil, animals, humans. Everything. All told, eight million spirits, or kami, dwell on earth. But here’s the rub—each spirit has two souls: one gentle, the other violent.

Ghost Koi Photo: Minette Layne

When Buddhism was introduced to Japan in the sixth century, it added new dimensions to the traditional belief in spirits. According to Buddhist teachings, the souls of the unenlightened must be purified to ensure their safe passage to the Land of the Dead. With the new teachings came two frightening possibilities: you could A) wind up as a ghost trapped in the Land of the Living, or B) receive a karmic ticket straight to Hell.

Buddhist hell is one place I do not want to go.  Step into a temple and all it takes is one look at the Guardians of the Four Directions to understand that evildoers are going down. Ready for battle, the guardians are armed with swords, axes, bows and arrows, armor, killer abs, and above all— a ferocious stare. To symbolize their triumph over evil, each Guardian stands on top of a writhing, screaming Jaki.

 Photo: Wally Gobetz
Guardian of the Buddha, Asakusa Senso-ji Temple Gate Photo: Wally Gobetz

That’s right. Small evil demons are the closest thing to my name in Japanese. “The Embodiment of Evil.” Underfoot and trampled. Usually fanged and/or horned. The good news is that according to legend, the Jaki repented and are now entrusted with holding the lanterns that light the righteous path.

I wasn’t raised with the concept of hell and as a child felt thankful that death was kept at an impersonal distance. It wasn’t until I was in my thirties that I lost anyone close to me. When my dad died suddenly, I had few visceral connections to his death. A closed casket and open grave were the only signposts.

My friends who grew up in Japan had a very different experience. For them, death and dying was personal and hands-on. When a grandparent died, the body stayed at home with the family until arrangements were made for the cremation. Once the ashes cooled, family members worked two at a time using large chopsticks to carefully remove all the bone fragments and place them in an urn.

Everyone participated in the process, including the children. For the larger bones, two people had to work together to hold and pass the fragments. The ashes were added later, sometimes distributed among several urns to be shared with relatives and the temple.

I’ve always been struck by the way the Japanese keep death and dying comfortably near. Most homes have an altar where families display photos of departed loved ones and place offerings of  rice, flowers, incense, and favorite treats. Every summer during Obon, the spirits of the deceased return to the altar kept in their honor.  People celebrate by gathering in public spaces to pound taiko drums and dance the same lilting steps that people danced 500 years ago when bon-odori began. On the last night of the three-day festival, they light floating lanterns to guide their ancestors’ spirits back to the otherworld.

It’s not surprising that spirit monsters and heroes are among Japan’s top exports. The dark video games, trading cards, and cosplay grew in fertile ground. For the Japanese, death and the spirit world are woven into life.  An unbroken circle.

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Floating Lanterns, Yokosuka Bon Odori Photo: Jeff Laitila

Cool Japan/1

Cute Is Cool

A few decades ago when life was simpler, the Japanese word kawaii (kah-wah-ee) was translated as “cute” or “pretty.” Now it means something much bigger.

For Japanese twenty-somethings, kawaii describes anything that’s beautiful, loveable, charming, cool, pop, or even weird—as long as it’s fashionable and worth having. Imagine the stuff of everyday life like jackets, cups, backpacks, lunchboxes, cellphone cases. Now re-imagine everything covered in tiny hearts, twinkling stars, paw prints, bows, and cherries. Life is better when daily survival gear comes in high-gloss pink.

Cuteness really resonates in Japan. It’s so accepted and so appealing that smiling plastic frogs redirect traffic at construction sites. Orange-and-white striped cones just can’t compete.

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From Dayton to Dubai, Hello Kitty™ rules.      Photo: Toyohara

Recognizing the unbridled power of kawaii, Japanese companies have exported cute in a big way. Miss Kitty White had her international debut 40 years ago, and she’s showing no signs of slowing down. Last year, she earned $60 billion from branded merchandise and licensing agreements. This month she’s going on tour in L.A. with a retrospective at the Japanese American National Museum and an international convention. Visitors to the museum will have the chance to see artifacts from Sanrio’s archives and experience music, paintings, sculpture, and high fashion inspired by the bubble-headed kitten/girl.

Hello Kitty Is Not a Cat!
Retrospective for Kawaii Cat

Kawaii fashion has evolved in the frenetic incubator of downtown Tokyo. Many women take a straight-on frilly approach opting for lace, flowers, and bows. There are also adherents of “erotic-cute” and “grotesque-cute.” In fact, the two terms have become part of the Japanese lexicon. These style distinctions may seem like fluff to an outsider, but the unspoken rules of kawaii fashion are a serious matter, dissected and debated across multiple platforms and media channels from Instagram and NHK TV, to academic texts and eZines

Cute isn’t without its critics in Japan. They say the national obsession reinforces a sexist view of women as infantile and submissive. In response, defenders of cute have come up with interesting rationales. Some claim it’s an expression of national pride—a healthy response to the impossibly tall supermodels of the West. Others see the Cult of Cute as a form of spiritual practice. In their view, collecting cute things is an escape from the harsh realities of modern life.

Let me know your take on this psycho-spiritual analysis. Meanwhile, back to the clothes…

There are things I love about Japanese fashion and things I have never understood. On the love side, is the often unexpected color palette. When I went to Kyoto in the late 1980s, the color of the moment was chartreuse. I immediately embraced it then began monitoring its slow cross-cultural progress. It took exactly 2.25 years for the quirky shade of green to make its way across the Pacific and catch on in San Francisco.

A few years later, Oba-san began sending gifts to my newborn son. Boxes of baby clothes arrived in surprising shades of mauve, blueberry, orange, avocado, and brown. Clearly, the Japanese were thinking outside the box— or maybe they’ve been inside a different box all along.

On the don’t-understand-so-much side of Japanese fashion are the bleak oversized garments in black and white first made famous by the avant-garde designer, Yohji Yamamoto. His clothes had a minimalist ninja vibe. They were deconstructed and layered, with gaping tears and asymmetrical lines.

Out of curiosity, I recently checked out his Winter 2014 collection. It’s very different from what I remembered. In addition to his classic black on black, many pieces are blazing with bright colors, whimsical patterns, and yes— cuteness!